Introducing the Isle of Harris
Not far off the west coast of Scotland is a group of over 200 islands known as the Outer Hebrides or Western Isles, one of these is the Isle of Harris. Although the tourist industry is an important part of the islands economy generally most people will only know of the place because of the very popular cloth called Harris Tweed. Although known as Harris Tweed because it was generally made on the Isle of Harris it is now also made on the adjoining Isle of Lewis.
Tarbert is the main village on the Isle of Harris and where you can catch the roll on roll off ferry. Tarbert is something of a picture postcard scene with the old houses along the narrow main street and more modern buildings appearing on terraces up one side of the narrow green valley it is set in. In stark contrast the ferry terminal and access road are very modern having been built relatively recently to ease congestion when the ferry is in port.
North Harris is known for it's dramatic mountains and winding single track roads. As you drive along the road do not be alarmed as you drive through the main entrance of Amhuinnsuide Castle and past the castle's front door, as you are still on the public highway and have not made a wrong turn onto a private road (which I thought when I first visited the area).
About 15 minutes drive from Tarbert is the small island called the Isle of Scalpay which is joined to the Isle of Harris by a narrow single track bridge. Scalpay once had a population of well over 800 and was an incredibly busy fishing community. Today the population is less than 300 but there is still a small but active fishing fleet. The north harbour is where you will find the pier but one of the best places to visit involves a trek across open moorland. Eilean Glas lighthouse was the first built in Scotland erected in 1788. Now automated the buildings and surrounding grounds are both beautiful and interesting.
Moving along to South Harris you will notice a change of scenery. Although the east side of the island is very rocky the west side of South Harris is lush and green. the rolling hills are far softer and there are large areas of machair (highly fertile grassland), which has plenty of wildflowers and is most beautiful. It is along the west coast that you will find the most beautiful beaches on the Isle of Harris and, most probably, Scotland and even the United Kingdom.
Driving southwards along the west coast can be somewhat dangerous if you have not visited Harris before. While you will quickly become accustomed to the single track roads the spectacular sights of the most astounding beaches (to your right) often causes drivers to suddenly slow down. Often the drivers have become so overcome by the amazing scenery that they are unaware of traffic behind. Please be prepared for this and take the greatest care to consider others. I am not exaggerating the reactions are often extreme. The best thing to do is to pull over and take the time to enjoy the views at no risk to others.
The largest village on South Harris is Leverburgh. It is at Leverburgh that you can catch a CalMac ferry over to Berneray and the Uists. If you need to purchase fuel or supplies you will find a well stocked local shop and a local post office, which also stocks gifts and other interesting items.
Towards the most southerly point on the Isle of Harris you will find the small village of Rodel, once the most important on Harris. It is here that you will find one of the best places to visit on the Isle of Harris, St Clements Church. St Clements is a medieval church which features ancient carvings and two incredible tombs.
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